<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<TEI xmlns="http://www.tei-c.org/ns/1.0">
 <teiHeader>
  <fileDesc>
   <titleStmt><title>How Chocolate Is Made and Drunk</title><author>Thomas Gage, The English-American, or A New Survey of the West Indies (London, 1648), chapter 16: chocolate and atole</author><editor>Hearth Interactive</editor></titleStmt>
   <publicationStmt><publisher>Hearth Library</publisher><ptr target="https://hearthinteractive.com/library/sources/ea-gage-chocolate"/></publicationStmt>
   <sourceDesc><bibl>Thomas Gage, The English-American his Travail by Sea and Land: or, A New Survey of the West-India's (London: R. Cotes, for Humphrey Blunden and Thomas Williams, 1648), chapter XVI, pp. 106–110. Digital text: Project Gutenberg eBook 54425, transcribed from this printing, compared with the page images of Internet Archive item englishamericanh00gage (John Carter Brown Library copy).<idno type="hearth-edition">gage-english-american-1648</idno></bibl></sourceDesc>
  </fileDesc>
  <profileDesc><langUsage><language ident="en-x-emodern">English (Early Modern)</language></langUsage></profileDesc>
 </teiHeader>
 <standOff>
  <listPerson><person xml:id="x-person_antonio-colmenero"><persName>Antonio Colmenero de Ledesma</persName><note>A Spanish doctor who had lived in the Indies and wrote a treatise on chocolate, printed in Madrid in 1631. Thomas Gage drew on it for his chapter on chocolate.</note></person><personGrp xml:id="x-people_africans" role="people"><persName>Africans</persName><note>People of Africa and of African descent, as the writers name them, many of them brought to the Americas as slaves. Gage calls them Blackmores.</note></personGrp></listPerson>

  <listPlace><place xml:id="x-place_spain"><placeName>Spain</placeName><location><geo>40 -4</geo></location></place><place xml:id="x-place_italy"><placeName>Italy</placeName><location><geo>44.5 10.5</geo></location></place><place xml:id="x-place_flanders"><placeName>Flanders</placeName><location><geo>51 3.7</geo></location></place><place xml:id="x-place_tenochtitlan"><placeName>Mexico-Tenochtitlan</placeName><location><geo>19.4326 -99.1332</geo></location></place><place xml:id="x-place_england"><placeName>England</placeName><location><geo>52.5 -1.5</geo></location></place><place xml:id="x-place_santiago-de-guatemala"><placeName>Santiago de Guatemala</placeName><location><geo>14.557 -90.733</geo></location></place></listPlace>
  <list type="ideas-and-dates"><item xml:id="x-idea_chocolate">chocolate <note>A drink made from ground cacao beans, beaten to a froth and often spiced with chile, vanilla or sugar. The Mexica served it to lords; by the 1600s Spaniards drank it all over the Indies and in Europe.</note></item><item xml:id="x-idea_cacao">cacao <note>The beans from which chocolate is made. In Mexico and Yucatán they served as money.</note></item><item xml:id="x-idea_humors">the humors <note>The four body fluids (blood, phlegm, yellow bile, black bile) that doctors from Hippocrates to the 1800s believed had to stay in balance for health.</note></item><item xml:id="x-idea_sugar">sugar and honey <note>The sweeteners of the past: honey, gathered at home, and sugar, an expensive import used freely only at great tables.</note></item><item xml:id="x-idea_spices">spices <note>Ginger, cinnamon, cloves, mace, galingale and other costly spices brought to Europe from the East, with saffron grown in Spain, Italy and England, used freely at great tables and mixed into ready-made powders.</note></item><item xml:id="x-idea_maize">maize (corn) <note>The grain of the Americas, eaten as bread, porridge and drink and planted in hills or holes made with a stick. English writers called it Indian corn.</note></item><item xml:id="x-idea_feast-days">feast days and the church year <note>The saints' days and church feasts, such as Candlemas, Lammas, Michaelmas and Martinmas, by which people dated events and timed the work of the year.</note></item><item xml:id="x-idea_markets">markets and trade <note>Buying, selling and trading goods: markets, merchants, money and the routes along which goods traveled.</note></item><item xml:id="x-idea_almond-milk">almond milk <note>Almonds ground and mixed with broth, water or wine into a thick white milk. Medieval cooks used it in place of cow's milk, especially on the Church's fish days.</note></item></list>
 </standOff>
 <text>
  <body>
  <div type="original" xml:lang="en-x-emodern">
   <ab xml:id="x-16.1" n="16.1"><term ref="#x-idea_chocolate">Chocolatte</term> being this day used not onely over all the West-India's, but also in <placeName ref="#x-place_spain">Spain</placeName>, <placeName ref="#x-place_italy">Italy</placeName>, and <placeName ref="#x-place_flanders">Flanders</placeName>, with approbation of many learned Doctors in Physick, among whom <persName ref="#x-person_antonio-colmenero">Antonio Colmenero</persName> of Ledesma; (who lived once in the India's) hath composed a learned and curious Treatise concerning the nature and quality of this drink; I thought fit to insert here also somewhat of it concerning my own experience for the space of twelve yeers. This name Chocolatte is an Indian name, and is compounded from Atte, as some say or as others, Atle, which in the Mexican language signifieth water, &amp; from the sound which the water (wherein is put the Chocolatte) makes, as Choco, Choco, Choco, when it is stirred in a cup by an instrument called a Molinet, or Molinillo, untill it bubble and rise unto a froath. And as there it is a name compounded, so in English wee may well call it a compounded or a confectioned drink wherein are found many and severall Ingredients, according to the different disposition of the body of them that use it. But the chief Ingredient (without which it cannot be made) is called <term ref="#x-idea_cacao">Cacao</term>, a kind of nut or kernell bigger then a great Almond, which growes upon a tree called the tree of Cacao, and ripens in a great huske, wherein sometimes are found more, sometimes lesse Cacao's, sometimes twenty, sometimes thirty, nay forty, and above.</ab>
   <ab xml:id="x-16.5" n="16.5">As for the rest of the ingredients which make this Chocolatticall confection, there is notable variety; for some put into it black Pepper, which is not well approved of by the Physitians, because it is <term ref="#x-idea_humors">so hot and dry</term>, but onely for one who hath a very cold liver; but commonly instead of this Pepper, they put into it long red Pepper, called Chile, which though it be hot in the mouth, yet is cool and moist in the operation. It is further compounded with <term ref="#x-idea_sugar">white Sugar</term>, <term ref="#x-idea_spices">Cinnamon</term>, Clove, Anniseed, Almonds, Hasell-nuts, Orejuela, Bainilla, Sapayoll, Orenge flower water, some Muske, and as much of Achiotte, as will make it looke of the colour of a red bricke. But how much of each of these may be applyed to such a quantity of <term ref="#x-idea_cacao">Cacao</term>, the severall dispositions of mens bodies must be their rule.</ab>
   <ab xml:id="x-16.9" n="16.9">All these ingredients are usually put into the Chocolatte, and by some more, according to their fancies. But the meaner sort of people, as <name type="people" ref="#x-people_africans">Blackmores</name> and Indians, commonly put nothing into it, but Cacao, Achiotte, <term ref="#x-idea_maize">Maiz</term>, and a few Chiles with a little Anniseed.</ab>
   <ab xml:id="x-16.11" n="16.11">Now for the making or compounding of this drinke, I shall set downe here the method. The <term ref="#x-idea_cacao">Cacao</term>, and the other ingredients must be beaten in a morter of stone, or (as the Indians use) ground upon a broad stone, which they call Metate, and is only made for that use. But first the ingredients are all to be dried, except the Achiotte, with care that they may be beaten to powder, keeping them still in stirring, that they be not burnt, or become black; for if they be overdried, they will be bitter, and lose their virtue. The Cinnamon and the long red pepper are to be first beaten, with the Anniseed, and then the Cacao, which must be beaten by little and little, till it be all powdred; and in the beating it must be turned round, that it may mixe the better. Every one of these ingredients must be beaten by it selfe, and then all be put into the vessell, where the Cacao is, which you must stirre together with a spoon, and then take out that paste, and put it into the morter, under which there must be a little fire, after the confection is made; but if more fire be put under then will only warme it, then the unctuous part will dry away. The Achiotte also must be put in in the beating, that it may the better take the colour. All the ingredients must be searsed, save onely the Cacao, and if from the Cacao the dry shell be taken, it will be the better. When it is well beaten, and incorporated (which will be known by the shortnesse of it) then with a spoon (so in the India's is used) is taken up some of the paste, which will be almost liquid, and made into tablets, or else without a spoon put into boxes, and when it is cold it will be hard.</ab>
   <ab xml:id="x-16.13" n="16.13">The manner of drinking it, is divers; the one (being the way most used in <placeName ref="#x-place_tenochtitlan">Mexico</placeName>) is to take it hot with <term ref="#x-idea_maize">Atolle</term>, dissolving a tablet in hot water, and then stirring and beating it in the cup, where it is to be drunke, with a Molinet, and when it is well stirred to a scumme or froath, then to fill the cup with hot Atolle and so drinke it sup by sup.</ab>
   <ab xml:id="x-16.15" n="16.15">But the most ordinary way, is, to warme the water very hot, and then to powre out halfe the cup full that you mean to drinke; and to put into it a tablet or two, or as much as will thicken reasonably the water, and then grind it well with the Molinet, and when it is well ground and risen to a scum, to fill the cup with hot water, and so drinke it by sups (having sweetned it with <term ref="#x-idea_sugar">Sugar</term>) and to eat it with a little conserve, or maple bread, steeped into the Chocolatte.</ab>
   <ab xml:id="x-16.17" n="16.17">There is another way yet to drinke <term ref="#x-idea_chocolate">Chocolatte</term>, which is cold, which the Indians use at <term ref="#x-idea_feast-days">feasts</term>, to refresh themselves, and it is made after this manner. The Chocolatte (which is made with none or very few ingredients) being dissolved in cold water with the Molinet, they take off the scumme or crassy part, which riseth in great quantity, especially when the Cacao is older and more putrefied. The scumme they lay aside in a little dish by it selfe, and then put sugar into that part from whence was taken the scum, and then powre it from on high into the scumme, and so drinke it cold. And this drinke is so cold, that it agreeth not with all mens stomacks; for by experience it hath been found, that it doth hurt, by causing pains in the stomack, especially to women.</ab>
   <ab xml:id="x-16.21" n="16.21">The other drinke which is much used in the India's is called Atolle, of which I will say but a little, because I know it cannot be used here. This was the drinke of the ancient Indians, and is a thick pap made of the flower of <term ref="#x-idea_maize">Maiz</term>, taking off the huskes from it, which is <term ref="#x-idea_humors">windy and melancholy</term>. This is commonly carried by the Indian women to the <term ref="#x-idea_markets">Markets</term> hot in pots, and there is sold in cups. The Criolian students, as wee goe to a Taverne to drink a cup of wine, so they go in company to the publike Markets, and as publikely buy and drinke by measure of this Atolle; which somtimes is seasoned with a little Chile, or long Pepper, and then it pleaseth them best. But the Nuns and Gentlewomen have got a trick of confectioning it with Cinnamon, Sweet-waters, Amber, or Muske, and store of Sugar, and thus it is held to be a most strong and nourishing drinke, which the Physitians doe prescribe unto a weake body, as we doe here our <term ref="#x-idea_almond-milk">Almond-milke</term>. But of what <placeName ref="#x-place_england">England</placeName> never knew nor tasted, I will say no more, but hasten my penne to <placeName ref="#x-place_santiago-de-guatemala">Guatemala</placeName>, which hath been my second patria.</ab>
  </div>
  <div type="translation" xml:lang="en">
   <ab n="16.1" corresp="#x-16.1">Chocolate is used today not only all over the West Indies but also in Spain, Italy, and Flanders, with the approval of many learned doctors of medicine. Among them Antonio Colmenero of Ledesma (who once lived in the Indies) has written a learned and curious treatise on the nature and quality of this drink. So I thought fit to set down here something about it from my own experience over twelve years. This name chocolate is an Indian name. It is compounded from atte, as some say, or as others say atle, which in the Mexican language means water, and from the sound which the water (in which the chocolate is put) makes, as choco, choco, choco, when it is stirred in a cup with an instrument called a molinet, or molinillo, until it bubbles and rises into a froth. And as it is a compounded name there, so in English we may well call it a compounded or confectioned drink, in which are found many different ingredients, according to the different constitutions of the bodies of those who use it. But the chief ingredient (without which it cannot be made) is called cacao. It is a kind of nut or kernel bigger than a large almond. It grows on a tree called the cacao tree and ripens in a great husk, in which are found sometimes more and sometimes fewer cacaos: sometimes twenty, sometimes thirty, even forty and more.</ab>
   <ab n="16.5" corresp="#x-16.5">As for the rest of the ingredients that make up this chocolate confection, there is great variety. Some put black pepper into it, which the physicians do not approve of, because it is so hot and dry, except for one who has a very cold liver. But commonly, instead of this pepper, they put in long red pepper, called chile, which, though it is hot in the mouth, is cool and moist in its working. It is further compounded with white sugar, cinnamon, cloves, aniseed, almonds, hazelnuts, orejuela, bainilla, sapayoll, orange-flower water, some musk, and as much achiote as will make it look the color of a red brick. But how much of each of these should be put to a given quantity of cacao, the different constitutions of people's bodies must decide.</ab>
   <ab n="16.9" corresp="#x-16.9">All these ingredients are usually put into chocolate, and by some people more, according to their fancies. But the poorer sort of people, such as Blackamoors and Indians, commonly put nothing into it but cacao, achiote, maize, and a few chiles with a little aniseed.</ab>
   <ab n="16.11" corresp="#x-16.11">Now for the making or compounding of this drink, I shall set down the method here. The cacao and the other ingredients must be beaten in a stone mortar, or (as the Indians do) ground on a broad stone which they call a metate, which is made only for that use. But first the ingredients are all to be dried, except the achiote. Take care that they can be beaten to powder, and keep stirring them so that they are not burnt or turn black; for if they are overdried, they will be bitter and lose their virtue. The cinnamon and the long red pepper are to be beaten first, with the aniseed, and then the cacao, which must be beaten little by little till it is all powdered; and in the beating it must be turned round, so that it mixes better. Every one of these ingredients must be beaten by itself, and then all put into the vessel where the cacao is, which you must stir together with a spoon. Then take out that paste and put it into the mortar, under which there must be a little fire after the confection is made. But if more fire is put under it than will just warm it, then the oily part will dry away. The achiote also must be put in during the beating, so that it may take the color better. All the ingredients must be sifted, except only the cacao, and if the dry shell is taken off the cacao, it will be all the better. When it is well beaten and incorporated (which will be known by its shortness), then some of the paste, which will be almost liquid, is taken up with a spoon (as is done in the Indies) and made into tablets, or else put into boxes without a spoon; and when it is cold it will be hard.</ab>
   <ab n="16.13" corresp="#x-16.13">The ways of drinking it are various. One (the way most used in Mexico) is to take it hot with atole. You dissolve a tablet in hot water, and then stir and beat it with a molinet in the cup it is to be drunk from. When it is well stirred to a scum or froth, you fill the cup with hot atole and so drink it sip by sip.</ab>
   <ab n="16.15" corresp="#x-16.15">But the most ordinary way is to heat the water very hot, and then pour out half the cupful that you mean to drink. Put into it a tablet or two, or as much as will thicken the water reasonably, and then grind it well with the molinet. When it is well ground and has risen to a froth, fill the cup with hot water, and so drink it by sips (having sweetened it with sugar), and eat with it a little conserve, or maple bread, dipped into the chocolate.</ab>
   <ab n="16.17" corresp="#x-16.17">There is yet another way to drink chocolate, which is cold. The Indians use it at feasts, to refresh themselves, and it is made in this manner. The chocolate (which is made with no ingredients, or very few) is dissolved in cold water with the molinet. Then they take off the scum or thick part, which rises in great quantity, especially when the cacao is older and more decayed. They lay the scum aside in a little dish by itself, and then put sugar into the part from which the scum was taken. Then they pour it from on high into the scum, and so drink it cold. And this drink is so cold that it does not agree with every stomach; for experience has shown that it does harm by causing pains in the stomach, especially to women.</ab>
   <ab n="16.21" corresp="#x-16.21">The other drink which is much used in the Indies is called atole. I will say only a little about it, because I know it cannot be used here. This was the drink of the ancient Indians. It is a thick pap made of the flour of maize, with the husks taken off, which is windy and melancholy. It is commonly carried hot in pots by the Indian women to the markets, and there it is sold in cups. The Creole students, as we go to a tavern to drink a cup of wine, go together to the public markets and just as publicly buy and drink this atole by the measure. Sometimes it is seasoned with a little chile, or long pepper, and then it pleases them best. But the nuns and gentlewomen have learned a trick of making it with cinnamon, sweet waters, amber or musk, and plenty of sugar. Made this way it is held to be a very strong and nourishing drink, which the physicians prescribe for a weak body, as we do almond milk here. But of what England never knew nor tasted, I will say no more, but hurry my pen on to Guatemala, which has been my second patria.</ab>
  </div>


  <linkGrp type="alignment">

  </linkGrp>
  </body>
 </text>
</TEI>
