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   <titleStmt><title>Cacao, Chili and Maize</title><author>Francisco Hernández, Treasury of Medical Things of New Spain (written in New Spain in the 1570s; Recchi's selection, printed at Rome, 1651): cacao, chili and maize</author><editor>Hearth Interactive</editor></titleStmt>
   <publicationStmt><publisher>Hearth Library</publisher><ptr target="https://hearthinteractive.com/library/sources/ea-hernandez-plants"/></publicationStmt>
   <sourceDesc><bibl>Francisco Hernández, Rerum medicarum Novae Hispaniae thesaurus, seu plantarum animalium mineralium Mexicanorum historia, selected by Nardo Antonio Recchi, edited with notes by Johannes Terrentius and others of the Accademia dei Lincei (Rome: Vitale Mascardi, 1651): book 3, chapter 46, pp. 79–81; book 5, chapter 3, pp. 134–135; book 7, chapter 40, pp. 242–243. Digital copy: Internet Archive item bub_gb_688M_tqHE1MC (Google scan); text transcribed from the page images. Main text only.<idno type="hearth-edition">hernandez-thesaurus-1651</idno></bibl></sourceDesc>
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  <listPerson><person xml:id="x-person_actuarius"><persName>John Zacharias Actuarius</persName><note>A Byzantine physician of about 1300 who wrote on medicines; Hernández's editors cite him for the name *capsicum*.</note></person><personGrp xml:id="x-people_mexica" role="people"><persName>Mexica</persName><note>The Nahuatl-speaking people of Mexico-Tenochtitlan, often called Aztecs, who ruled much of central Mexico when the Spaniards arrived in 1519. Spanish writers called them Mexicans.</note></personGrp><personGrp xml:id="x-people_taino" role="people"><persName>Taíno</persName><note>The people of Hispaniola, Cuba and the larger Caribbean islands whom Columbus met in 1492. Their name was given later, from a word Spaniards heard them say, *taíno*, “good.”</note></personGrp><personGrp xml:id="x-people_spaniards" role="people"><persName>Spaniards</persName><note>The people of Spain, as the writers name them: conquerors, settlers, traders and rivals in the Americas and elsewhere.</note></personGrp></listPerson>

  <listPlace><place xml:id="x-place_new-spain"><placeName>New Spain</placeName><location><geo>19.4 -99.1</geo></location></place></listPlace>
  <list type="ideas-and-dates"><item xml:id="x-idea_cacao">cacao <note>The beans from which chocolate is made. In Mexico and Yucatán they served as money.</note></item><item xml:id="x-idea_markets">markets and trade <note>Buying, selling and trading goods: markets, merchants, money and the routes along which goods traveled.</note></item><item xml:id="x-idea_hot-and-cold">hot and cold qualities <note>The old medical belief, shared in different forms by European and Mesoamerican healers, that foods, medicines and illnesses were hot or cold, moist or dry, and should be balanced against each other.</note></item><item xml:id="x-idea_herbal-remedies">healing plants <note>Roots, leaves and bark used as medicine, by Indigenous healers in the Americas and by European herbalists and apothecaries.</note></item><item xml:id="x-idea_maize">maize (corn) <note>The grain of the Americas, eaten as bread, porridge and drink and planted in hills or holes made with a stick. English writers called it Indian corn.</note></item><item xml:id="x-idea_vanilla">vanilla <note>The cured pod of a Mexican orchid, called *tlilxochitl*, “black flower,” in Nahuatl, used to flavor cacao drinks.</note></item><item xml:id="x-idea_chili">chili <note>The hot peppers of the Americas, called *chilli* in Nahuatl and *ají* in the Caribbean. Europeans took them home in the 1500s, and Francisco Hernández described many Mexican kinds.</note></item></list>
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   <ab xml:id="x-3.46.2" n="3.46.2">Semen <term ref="#x-idea_cacao">Cacauatl</term> erat illis pro <term ref="#x-idea_markets">nummo</term>, &amp; eo præcipua vitæ præmio, cum opus erat, comparabantur. duratq. in hodiernum vsque diem non paucis in locis hic mos. Quid ni? Quando quibusdam orientalium gentium Cochleæ Veneriæ, &amp; alijs folia quarumdam arborum, &amp; alijs alia pecuniæ gerunt vices. quin &amp; ex eodem semine, quo commercia inibantur, feruebant emporia, &amp; in varios dominos illius ope mercimonia transferebantur. concinnabantq. potum, nondum vini conficiendi ratione reperta, cum tamen nonnulla Vitium syluestrium, ac genera labruscarum apud illos suapte natura in syluis passim prouenirent, arboresque, &amp; frutices, quibus aduoluebantur, vuis, acinisq. variorum colorum, &amp; pampinis condecorarent, atque grauitate sua incuruarent.</ab>
   <ab xml:id="x-3.46.3" n="3.46.3">De hoc celeberrimo semine, &amp; quod in nostram vsque tempestatem, &amp; nummi &amp; vini apud illos subeat vicem, agendum est, ab ipsa arbore sumpto initio. Est ergo <term ref="#x-idea_cacao">Cacaua Quahuitl</term> arbor, amplitudine, &amp; folijs mali Medicæ, longè tamen maioribus, atque amplioribus. fructu oblongo, Peponi magno simile, sed striato, &amp; rufo, Cacauacentli nuncupato: semine Cacahuatl pleno, quod semen, vt diximus, <name type="people" ref="#x-people_mexica">Mexicanis</name> pro nummo est, materiemq. potionis eidem genti gratissimè præbet. Substantia idem constat pulpa in dispares diuisa particulas, sed probè compositas inter se, tenera, multi nutrimenti, subamara, subdulcique &amp; temperata natura, aut <term ref="#x-idea_hot-and-cold">paululum frigida</term>, atque humenti.</ab>
   <ab xml:id="x-3.46.5" n="3.46.5">Nascitur in calidis, feruidisq. regionibus, locis vliginosis, aquosis, &amp; humectantibus. Acuta igitur ægritudine laborantibus, exhiberi solet ex eo semine parata potio, cui nihil præterea commixtum sit, contemperando æstui, ac feruori placando, &amp; his quos <term ref="#x-idea_hot-and-cold">calida intemperies</term> epatis, alteriusuè partis vexat. Si verò quatuor granis vnica vncia misceatur gummi eius, quod vocant Olli, bibaturq. <term ref="#x-idea_herbal-remedies">dysentericus affectus</term> mirè coercetur. verum sunt gummi ipsum, ipsaq. grana prius torrefacienda. grana siquidem adeo pinguia sunt, vt exprimere, si libeat, possis ab eis oleum. gummi verò tenacissima, &amp; valde glutinosa vi præditum. nimius autem huius potionis vsus viscera obstruit, colorem inficit, &amp; ad Cachexiam, &amp; insanabiles alios morbos ducit.</ab>
   <ab xml:id="x-3.46.6" n="3.46.6">Sed quoniam, &amp; compositæ, &amp; simplices parari ex eo potiones solent, atque hæ non vnica tantum ratione, aut eisdem ex rebus, iam his iam illis floribus, alijsuè plantarum partibus in farinam redactis &amp; adiectis, in eis enarrandis fuerit haud immeritò aliquandiu commorandum. Primum ergo potionis genus ex eo semine parari solitum, Atatexli seu madens dicitur. fit hoc simplex ex centum plus minus granis <term ref="#x-idea_cacao">Cacauatl</term> crudis, aut torrefactis, sed probè contusis, &amp; commixtis ei portioni <term ref="#x-idea_maize">frumenti Indici</term>, eo quo diximus modo redditi mollioris, quæ vtrisque manibus apertis, coniunctisque, &amp; in capacem figuram efformatis, possit commodè comprehendi. si verò libet parare compositum, addes Macaxochitl vocatæ plantæ Xochinacaztli, &amp; <term ref="#x-idea_vanilla">Tlilxochitl</term>, quæ suis describuntur locis, fructus contusos, &amp; commixtos reliquis, mox verò quantum satis sit agitatis. transferenda autem ex celsiori loco in aliud atque aliud vas, hæc potio est, donec spuma demum excitata, partibusq. pinguioribus, &amp; ad olei naturam propè accedentibus, ad superiora eleuatis sorbeantur, tantumq. leuiora sunt, &amp; gustui gratiora, vt seorsim maiori iucunditate degustentur. Vis compositæ est Venerem excitare, simplex enim refrigerat, atque impensè nutrit.</ab>
   <ab xml:id="x-3.46.7" n="3.46.7">Aliud genus fit ex quinque &amp; viginti granis Cacauapatlactli, totidem Cacauatl, <term ref="#x-idea_maize">frumenti verò Indici</term> pugillo vno. huic nihil addi solet ex prædictis, illa siquidem <term ref="#x-idea_hot-and-cold">calida</term> sunt. ex hac autem potione sola infrigidatio, &amp; nutritio quæritur. Tertium verò <term ref="#x-idea_cacao">Chocolatl</term> vocatum, paratur ex granis Pocholt, &amp; Cacauatl æqua mensura, quod magnopere traditur corpora impinguare, si frequentius ea vti contingat. Ergo contrita omnia in fictili funduntur, agitanturq. ligneo pistillo, donec portio pinguior magisq. spectans ad aeream naturam innatet. quam seponunt, ac seorsim collocant, residuoq. immiscent frumenti prædicti emolliti pugillum vnum. Postquam verò in liquorem sorbitioni idoneum omnia sunt redacta, id pinguedinis quod separauerant, rursus commiscent, atque ita demum tepidum potant, aut alijs sorbendum propinant. Hectica febre consumptis, tabidis, atque extenuatis mirè vtile.</ab>
   <ab xml:id="x-3.46.8" n="3.46.8">Aliud genus Tzene dictum, paratur ex <term ref="#x-idea_maize">frumenti Indici</term>, &amp; <term ref="#x-idea_cacao">Cacauatl</term> æquis portionibus torrefactis, &amp; modica quadam eiusdem frumenti emolliti parte decoctis, donec sorberi possint. quæ demum refrigescentia, nutrimenti, non medicamenti vices gerunt. Seritur iuxta Quahucacauatl vmbræ gratia arbos Atlinam vocata, nullius præterea, quod nouerim, vsus.</ab>
   <ab xml:id="x-5.3.1" n="5.3.1"><term ref="#x-idea_chili">CHILLI</term>, seu Piper Mexicanum, planta est ferens siliquas illas, quæ ab <name type="people" ref="#x-people_taino">Haitinis</name> Agies, ab antiquis, vt quidam volunt, siliquastra, &amp; ab <name type="people" ref="#x-people_spaniards">Hispanis</name> Piper Indicum vocatur, &amp; Capsicum ab <persName ref="#x-person_actuarius">Actuario</persName> nuncupatur. quæ licet diù in nostrum orbem translata sit, ibiq; &amp; in hortis, &amp; in vasis fictilibus, ornamenti &amp; vsus gratia seratur, &amp; habeatur in delicijs, tamen quoniam apud Indos multo plura eorum genera reperiuntur, &amp; orexi excitandæ, commendandisq; ferculis suppetias ferat, adeo vt nullam sit reperire mensam sine Chilli, atque ideo quotidiano experimento sint illius facultates notissimæ, adductus sum non modo differentias, quæ in <placeName ref="#x-place_new-spain">noua Hispania</placeName> proueniunt, de quibus modo agitur, verum specierum fere omnium, quæ adhuc ad manus nostras peruenerunt, exhibere imagines, formas describere, vniuersamq; facultatem, &amp; naturam tradere posteritati.</ab>
   <ab xml:id="x-5.3.2" n="5.3.2">Cunctorum ergo generum folia Solano similia sunt, &amp; pene paria (si <term ref="#x-idea_chili">Quauhchilli</term> excipias, quæ minora eadem fert) &amp; flores candidi. è quibus siliquæ oriuntur, primo virides, mox maiori ex parte in rubrum, &amp; demum in passeum inclinantes colorem, refertæ paruo semine, exili, candicante, contuso, atque in orbem efformato, acris gustus, atque vrentis naturæ; quæ ad semen præcipue attinet. Quartum hæ <term ref="#x-idea_hot-and-cold">caloris gradum</term> attingunt, &amp; tertium fere siccitatis. etsi recentes excrementitio quodam humore abundant, qui totus pene vetustate euanescit.</ab>
   <ab xml:id="x-7.40.3" n="7.40.3"><term ref="#x-idea_maize">Tlaolli</term> ergo à nobis dictum Maizium (notior enim, &amp; vulgatior est hæc vox) à quibusdam recentiorum, Frumentum Turcicum, ab alijs verò consultius, Indicum appellatum, vt formam silentio toti iam cognitam mundo transigam, multas habet differentias (siluestre enim Maizium seorsim describetur) à colore, magnitudine, &amp; mollitudine granorum, quibus spicæ ipsæ stipantur, desumptas. Reperias enim quamplurimas granis constantes albis, alias pallentibus, nigris multas, quasdam purpureis, nec paucas, flauis, cyaneis, &amp; multorum colorum permixtis; demum alias quæ licet granis candentibus, vt priores constent, longè tamen ea habent maiora, teneriora, ac triplo maiori spicæ inhærentia.</ab>
   <ab xml:id="x-7.40.4" n="7.40.4">Seritur Martio, in singulas scrobes, inter se passum vnum distantes, quaternis quinisve granis coniectis, &amp; reponitur Nouembri, Decembri, &amp; Ianuario, repastinato solo. etsi pro varietate regionum, quæ apud hos Indos, ob dierum noctiumq; pene æquale interuallum, &amp; varios Solis situs, modicis spatijs mirum in modum euariant, tardius citiusq; solet demessum trituratumq; recondi.</ab>
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   <ab n="3.46.2" corresp="#x-3.46.2">The seed cacauatl served them as money, and when they needed them they bought the necessities of life with it. This custom lasts to this day in many places. And why not? Among certain peoples of the East, cowrie shells serve as money, among others the leaves of certain trees, and among others still other things. This same seed was the means of trade: with it the markets bustled, and goods passed from owner to owner. They also made a drink from it. They had not yet found out how to make wine, although wild vines and wild grapes grew of their own accord all through their woods, decking the trees and bushes they climbed with grapes, berries of many colors and tendrils, and bending them down with their weight.</ab>
   <ab n="3.46.3" corresp="#x-3.46.3">I must speak of this famous seed, which among them still takes the place of both money and wine, and I will begin with the tree itself. The cacaua quahuitl is a tree the size of a citron tree, with leaves like a citron's but much larger and broader. Its fruit is long, like a large melon, but ridged and reddish; it is called cacauacentli. It is full of the seed cacahuatl, which, as I have said, is money to the Mexicans and the stuff of a drink they love. The seed is made of a pulp divided into uneven pieces that fit closely together. It is tender, very nourishing, a little bitter and a little sweet, and temperate in nature, or a little cold and moist.</ab>
   <ab n="3.46.5" corresp="#x-3.46.5">Cacao grows in hot, sweltering regions, in marshy, wet and damp places. For people suffering from an acute illness, a drink made from the seed alone, with nothing else mixed in, is given to cool their heat and calm the fever, and to those troubled by a hot distemper of the liver or some other part. If one ounce of the gum they call olli is mixed with four grains and drunk, it checks dysentery wonderfully well. But the gum and the grains must first be roasted. The grains are so oily that you could press oil out of them if you liked, and the gum is very tough and sticky. Too much of this drink, however, blocks the inner organs, spoils the complexion, and leads to wasting and other incurable diseases.</ab>
   <ab n="3.46.6" corresp="#x-3.46.6">Since both plain and mixed drinks are made from cacao, and not in one way only or from the same things, but with now these flowers, now those, or other plant parts ground to flour and added, it is worth pausing for a while to describe them. The first kind of drink made from the seed is called atatexli, or “moistened.” The plain kind is made from about a hundred cacao beans, raw or roasted, well pounded and mixed with as much Indian grain, softened in the way I have described, as can be held in two hands cupped together. If you want to make the mixed kind, add the pounded fruits of the plant called macaxochitl, of xochinacaztli and of tlilxochitl, which are described in their own places. Mix them with the rest and stir as much as needed. Then the drink is poured from high up from one vessel into another, again and again, until foam rises. The fatty parts, which are almost like oil, rise to the top and are sipped off; they are so much lighter and tastier that people enjoy them on their own. The mixed drink arouses desire; the plain one cools and is very nourishing.</ab>
   <ab n="3.46.7" corresp="#x-3.46.7">Another kind is made from twenty-five beans of cacauapatlactli, as many of cacauatl, and one handful of Indian grain. None of the things named above is added to it, since they are hot; people want this drink only to cool and nourish them. The third kind, called chocolatl, is made from beans of pocholt and of cacao in equal measure. It is said to fatten the body a great deal if one drinks it often. All the ingredients are ground, put into an earthen pot and stirred with a wooden pestle until the fatter, lighter part floats to the top. They skim this off and set it aside, and into the rest they mix a handful of the softened grain. When everything has become a liquid thin enough to sip, they stir the fat they had set aside back in. Then at last they drink it warm, or offer it to others to drink. It is wonderfully good for people worn out, wasted and thin from a lingering fever.</ab>
   <ab n="3.46.8" corresp="#x-3.46.8">Another kind, called tzene, is made from Indian grain and cacao in equal parts, roasted, and boiled with a little of the same softened grain until it can be sipped. Being cooling, these drinks serve as food, not medicine. Beside the quahucacauatl they plant a tree called atlinam for shade; as far as I know it has no other use.</ab>
   <ab n="5.3.1" corresp="#x-5.3.1">Chilli, or Mexican pepper, is the plant that bears the pods that the people of Haiti call agies, which some say the ancients called siliquastrum, the Spaniards call Indian pepper, and Actuarius named capsicum. It was brought to our part of the world long ago, and there it is grown in gardens and in pots, for ornament and use, and is much prized. Yet the Indians have many more kinds of it. It so stirs the appetite and makes dishes tasty that no table is found without chilli, and its powers are well known from daily experience. So I have decided to show not only the kinds that grow in New Spain, which are my subject here, but pictures of almost all the kinds that have come into our hands so far, to describe their forms, and to pass on to later times all their powers and nature.</ab>
   <ab n="5.3.2" corresp="#x-5.3.2">The leaves of all the kinds are like nightshade and nearly the same size, except those of quauhchilli, which are smaller. The flowers are white. From them grow pods, green at first, then mostly turning red and at last the color of raisins. They are full of small, thin, whitish seeds, flat and round, sharp to the taste and burning in nature; the seed above all is like this. The pods reach the fourth degree of heat and about the third of dryness, although when fresh they are full of a waste moisture, which almost all disappears with age.</ab>
   <ab n="7.40.3" corresp="#x-7.40.3">Tlaolli, which I call maize (since this word is better known and more widely used), some recent writers call Turkish grain, and others, more wisely, Indian grain. I will say nothing of its shape, which the whole world knows by now. It comes in many kinds (wild maize will be described separately), which differ in the color, size and softness of the grains packed on the ears. You can find a great many ears with white grains, others with pale ones, many with black, some with purple, and quite a few with yellow, blue and many colors mixed. And there are others with white grains like the first, but much larger and more tender, set on an ear three times as big.</ab>
   <ab n="7.40.4" corresp="#x-7.40.4">It is sown in March, four or five grains to a hole, with the holes a pace apart, and the soil is hoed again; it is harvested in November, December and January. But it is reaped, threshed and stored earlier or later depending on the region. Here among the Indians, regions differ remarkably within short distances, because day and night are nearly equal in length and the sun stands at different heights.</ab>
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