Hearth Interactive

A voyage to the north: Ohthere and Wulfstan tell King Alfred

Written
later ninth century, in King Alfred’s reign
Place
Wessex (King Alfred’s court)
Language
Old English (West Saxon)
Kind of source
travel account
Reading time
6 minutes
Difficulty
Moderate
Intensity
Low: hunting and slaves are mentioned only in passing, nothing graphic

Voyages and sea travelHow languages changeFood, farming and hungerWords and namesRulers and courts

Versions

The edited translation, in simplified modern English. Bracketed words were added for clarity; [...] marks a cut. Tap a note number to read the note. Point at or tap a phrase to see the original behind it. Phrase links checked in a separate review.

Ohthere told his lord, King Alfred, that he lived farther north than any other Norseman.

He said he lived in the northern part of the land, by the Western Sea.

He said, though, that the land stretches very far north from there. But it is all wasteland, except that here and there, in a few places, Finns camp,1 hunting through the winter and fishing by the sea over the summer.

He said that he once wanted to find out how far the land stretched due north, or whether anyone lived north of the wasteland.

Then he sailed due north along the coast. All the way he kept the wasteland on his starboard side2 and the open sea on his port side, for three days.

By then he was as far north as the whale hunters ever travel.

Then he kept going due north, getting as far as he could manage in the next three days of sailing.

The Permians3 had settled their land very well, but [his crew] did not dare to go onto it.

The Permians told him a great many tales, about their own country as well as the lands near them; but he could not tell how much was true, since he had not seen it himself.

The Finns, it seemed to him, and the Permians spoke almost the same language.

He went there chiefly, besides seeing the land, for the walruses,4 because they have very fine bone in their teeth. Some of those teeth they brought to the king. And their hide is very good for ship ropes.

This kind of whale is much smaller than other whales: it grows no longer than seven ells.5 Yet in his own country is the best whale hunting: those are forty-eight ells long, and the biggest fifty ells long. [...]

He was a very wealthy man in the kind of goods that their wealth consists of, that is, in wild animals.

He still had, when he went to see the king, tame animals that were not yet sold, six hundred of them.

These animals they call reindeer. Of these there were six decoy reindeer.6 These are very valuable among the Finns, because with them they catch the wild reindeer.

He was among the foremost men in the land. Yet he had no more than twenty cattle, twenty sheep and twenty pigs. And the little that he plowed, he plowed with horses.

But their income comes mostly from the tribute paid to them by the Finns.

The tribute is paid in animal skins, in bird feathers, in whale bone, and in ship ropes made of whale hide and of seal hide.

Each man pays according to his rank.

The highest-ranking man has to pay fifteen marten skins, five reindeer [skins], one bearskin, ten ambra of feathers,7 a coat of bearskin or otter skin, and two ship ropes. Each is to be sixty ells long; one is to be made of whale hide, the other of seal hide.

He said that the Norsemen’s land was very long and also very narrow.

Everything that can be grazed or plowed lies along the sea. And it is, though, here and there very rocky. And wild moors lie to the east and up above, alongside the settled land.

On the moors live Finns.

And the settled land is broadest in the east, and always the farther north, the narrower.

Ohthere said that the district was called Halgoland, where he lived.8

He said that no one lived north of him.

There is a port in the southern part of that land, which is called Sciringes heal.9

He said that a person could not sail there in a month, even if he camped at night and had a fair wind every day; and all that time he has to sail along the land.

And on the starboard side he first has Iraland,10 and then the islands that lie between Iraland and this land.

Then there is this land, until he reaches Sciringes heal, and the whole way, on the port side, is Norway.

South of Sciringes heal a very large sea flows far inland; it is wider than anyone can see across.

And Gotland is on the other side, opposite, and then Sillende.11

This sea runs many hundreds of miles inland.

And from Sciringes heal, he said, he sailed in five days to the port that is called Haethum.12 It stands between the Wends, the Saxons and the Angles, and belongs to Denmark.

When he sailed that way from Sciringes heal, he had Denmark on his port side and open sea on his starboard side for three days. And then, two days before he arrived at Haethum, he had, on his starboard side, Gotland and Sillende and many islands.

And he had, for those two days, on his port side the islands that belong to Denmark.

Wulfstan said that he set out from Haethum and that he was at Truso13 within seven days and nights, and that the ship ran under sail the whole way.

Weonodland was on his starboard side, and on his port side were Langaland, Læland, Falster and Sconeg;14 and all those lands are part of Denmark.

And then Burgenda land15 was on our port side, and they have a king of their own. [...]

And Weonodland was all the way on our starboard side, to the mouth of the Wisle. [...]

[...] And then the Wisle takes the Ilfing’s name away, and flows from the lake west and north into the sea; that is why it is called Wislemuða.16

Estland17 is very large, and there are very many towns there, and in each town there is a king.

And there is very much honey there, and fishing. The king and the richest men drink mare’s milk, and the poor and the slaves drink mead. [...]

And there is no ale brewed among the Ests, but there is mead in plenty.

[...] And even if someone set out two vessels full of ale or water, they [this clan] cause either one to be frozen over, whether it is summer or winter.18

Notes

  1. Finnas, “Finns.” Bosworth’s notes (1859) connect them with Lapland; the people are now called Sámi. The text says only that they hunt and fish here. back
  2. Stēorbord is the starboard, the right-hand side of a ship, and bæcbord the port, the left-hand side. Sweet’s glossary gives stēorbord as “starboard.” back
  3. Beormas: Sweet’s note glosses this as “Permians.” The text says only that they had settled their land well and told Ohthere many stories. back
  4. Horshwæl, “horse-whale,” is the walrus (Sweet’s glossary). Bosworth’s notes add that walrus tusks are ivory and that walrus hide was plaited into ship ropes. back
  5. Ęlna is the plural of eln, an ell, an old measure of length. The translation keeps the Old English unit. back
  6. Stælhrānas, here “decoy reindeer”: tame animals the Finns used to catch wild ones, as the next clause says. Sweet’s note says hrān comes from Old Norse and gives us “reindeer.” back
  7. Ambra, a plural form of amber, is “a certain measure,” Sweet’s glossary says. The text does not say how large it was. back
  8. Hālgoland, Ohthere’s home district; Sweet’s note gives it as Halogaland (Hålogaland), a name from Norway. back
  9. Scīringes hēal: Sweet’s note gives the Old Norse form as Skíringssalr. The text puts it in the south of the land, on the route to Haethum. back
  10. Īraland has not been satisfactorily identified, Sweet notes. Ireland can hardly be meant, still less Iceland; one scholar, Rieger, thinks the Shetlands. back
  11. Sweet thought Gotland here was Jutland and Sillende Holstein; these are his guesses, and later editors differ. back
  12. Hæþum: Sweet’s note identifies it with Heipabœr, now Schleswig. It is written æt Hæþum, “at Hæþum,” with an old extra æt, which Sweet also finds in the Chronicle. back
  13. Trūsō: Sweet’s note gives the later name as Drausen; that is his identification. back
  14. Weonoðland, “Wend-land.” Sweet’s notes give the islands as Langeland, Lolland and Falster, and Scónēg as Skåne (Schonen). back
  15. Burgenda land: Sweet’s note says Bornholm; the name means “land of the Burgundians.” back
  16. Sweet’s notes give Wīsle as the Vistula and Ilfing as the Elbing. back
  17. Estland, the land of the Estas, whom Sweet’s note glosses as “Esthonians.” The text itself puts Estland east of the mouth of the Wisle (Vistula), so they are not the people of modern Estonia. back
  18. The omitted sentences describe the Ests’ funeral customs and say that one clan among them could make cold (cyle). The Old English does not say how. back