Hearth Interactive

Tenochtitlan, Its Food, Drink and Market

Draft: this translation has not yet been checked against the original by a separate review.

Written
written in Spanish some years after 1521 (original lost); printed in Italian at Venice, 1556
Place
Mexico-Tenochtitlan
Language
Italian (translated from a lost Spanish original)
Kind of source
description
Reading time
7 minutes
Difficulty
Moderate
Intensity
Low

MesoamericaFood, farming and hungerCooking and recipesTrade, markets and moneyHomes, towns and buildingConquest and resistance in the Americas

Versions

The edited translation, in simplified modern English. Bracketed words were added for clarity; [...] marks a cut. Tap a note number to read the note.

Their Food

The grain they make their bread from is a grain shaped like a chickpea. Some is white, some red, some black, and some bright red.1 They sow it, and it grows a stalk as tall as half a lance, with two or three ears on it. The grain grows on these ears, the way it does on millet. This is how they make bread. They put a big pot over the fire, holding four or five jars of water, and light the fire under it until the water boils. Then they take away the fire and throw in the grain, which they call Tavul.2 On top they throw a little lime, to loosen the skin that covers the grain. The next day, or three or four hours later, when it has cooled, they wash it very well in the river, or at home in many waters, until it is clean of the lime. Then they grind it on stones made for the purpose. As they grind, they keep adding water, and it turns into a dough. So, grinding and kneading at the same time, they make the bread. They bake it on large pans a little bigger than a sieve, and they eat it as soon as it is made, because it is better hot than cold. They have other ways of making it too. They make small rolls of the dough and wrap them in leaves. Then they put them in a big pot with a little water, cover it well, and cook them there in the heat and steam.3 They also cook the dough in pans with various other things that they eat.

Their Drinks

[...] They make various kinds of wine to drink.4 But the chief and noblest drink they have is one called Cachanatle.5 It is made from seeds that come from the fruit of a tree. The fruit is shaped like a cucumber, and inside it are large seeds, much like date stones. The tree that bears this fruit is the most delicate of all trees. It grows only in hot, rich land. Before they plant it, they plant two other trees with large leaves. When these are as tall as two men, they plant the fruit tree between them. Since it is so delicate, the two other trees guard it from the wind and the sun and keep it covered. These trees are highly prized, because their seeds are the main money in that country. Each seed is worth about half a marchetto among us.6 It is the most common money there, and the most used, though very awkward next to gold and silver.

How They Make Cacao

These seeds, which they call almonds, or cacao, are ground into powder, and other small seeds they have are ground with them. They put the powder into bowls with a spout, then add water and stir it with a spoon. When it is well mixed, they pour it from one bowl into another until a foam rises, and they collect the foam in a vessel made for the purpose. When they want to drink it, they stir it with little spoons of gold, silver, or wood, and drink it. You have to open your mouth wide to drink it, because it is foam and needs room to melt and go down little by little. Of all the foods eaten and all the drinks drunk in the world, this drink is the healthiest and the most nourishing. Whoever drinks a cup of it can go all day without eating anything else, however far he walks. It is better in hot weather than in cold, because by its nature it is cold.7

The Great City

[...] This great city of Temistitan Mexico8 is built in the part of the lake that has salt water. It is not right in the middle, but near the edge of the water, about a quarter of a league from the mainland at the nearest point.9 The city may be more than two and a half leagues around, close to three, more or less. Most of those who have seen it think it has well over sixty thousand inhabitants, more rather than fewer.10 It is entered by three raised roads of stone and earth, each thirty paces wide or more. One of these roads runs over the water for more than two leagues to the city, another for a league and a half. These two cross the lake and come into the middle of the city, where they join, so that you could say they are all one road. The third road runs from the mainland to the city for about a quarter of a league. Along this road, for three-quarters of a league, a channel brings water from the mainland into the city. The water is fresh and very good, and the stream is thicker than a man's body. It reaches right into the town, and all the people drink from it. It rises at the foot of a rock and a hill, where it forms a great spring, and from there it was brought to the city.11

The Squares and Markets

[...] In the city of Temistitan Mexico there are very large and very beautiful squares, where everything they use is sold. The greatest is the main square, which they call the Tutelula.12 It may be three times as large as the square of Salamanca, and it has arcades all around it. Every day some twenty or twenty-five thousand people are in this square buying and selling. On market day, which comes every five days, there are some forty or fifty thousand. The market is orderly, both in the way each kind of goods has its own place and in the way things are sold. On one side of the square are the people who sell gold. Next to them are those who sell stones of different kinds, set in gold in the shape of birds and animals. In another part they sell beads and mirrors; in another, feathers and plumes of every color, for working and sewing onto the clothes they wear to war and at their festivals. In another part they cut stone into razor blades and swords, a marvel to see that we over here could not imagine. With this stone they make swords and shields.13 In one part they sell men's cloth and clothes of many kinds, and in another women's clothes. In another they sell shoes; in another, the tanned hides of deer and other animals, and headdresses made of hair, which all the Indian women wear. In another they sell cotton. There is a place where they sell the grain they eat, one for bread of different kinds, and one for pies. There is one for hens, chickens, and eggs, and near it hares, rabbits, deer, quail, geese, and ducks. In another part they sell wine of various kinds, and in another garden greens of different kinds. Pepper is sold in that street, and in another, roots and healing herbs, of which they have an endless number. In another are fruits of many kinds, in another timber for houses, with the lime nearby and the stones next to it. In short, every kind of thing stands in its own place, in order. Besides this great square there are others, with markets selling food in different parts of the city.

Notes

  1. Maize. Like other Europeans, the writer calls it a grain and the food made from it bread. back
  2. So in this printing; the first printing (1556) has Tayul. García Icazbalceta took the word for the Nahuatl tlaolli, shelled maize (his note, as quoted by Saville, 1917). back
  3. Maize dough wrapped in leaves and steamed: what Spaniards came to call tamales. back
  4. The writer calls any fermented drink “wine.” back
  5. The cacao drink described in the next section. Saville (1917) glosses the word as chocolate. back
  6. A small Venetian coin of copper, worth very little. The comparison is the Italian text's, made for Venetian readers. back
  7. In the medicine of the humors, every food and drink was hot or cold, wet or dry by nature, whatever its temperature. A cold drink cooled the body, so it suited hot weather. back
  8. Tenochtitlan, the Mexica capital, on the site of present-day Mexico City. back
  9. A league was roughly the distance a person could walk in an hour. back
  10. So in this printing. Saville's English (1917), made from García Icazbalceta's Spanish, says seventy thousand. back
  11. Cortés's men broke this aqueduct at the start of the siege of 1521, to cut off the city's fresh water (see The Siege of Tenochtitlan). back
  12. Tlatelolco, the twin city on the north side of Tenochtitlan, with the greatest market in the valley. Cortés describes the same market in his second letter (see The Great Market of Tenochtitlan). back
  13. The stone is obsidian, a black volcanic glass. Earlier in his account the writer describes wooden swords with blades of this stone set along their edges. back