A free ticket on an early pleasure cruise

On the 24th of July, 1844, the writer of this little book went to dine at the —— Club, quite unconscious of the wonderful events which Fate had in store for him. Mr. William was there, giving a farewell dinner to his friend, Mr. James (now Sir James). These two asked Mr. Titmarsh to join company with them, and the conversation naturally fell upon the tour Mr. James was about to take. The Peninsular and Oriental Company had arranged an excursion in the Mediterranean, by which, in the space of a couple of months, as many men and cities were to be seen as Ulysses surveyed and noted in ten years. Malta, Athens, Smyrna, Constantinople, Jerusalem, Cairo were to be visited and everybody was to be back in London by Lord Mayor's-day.

On July 24, 1844, the writer of this little book went to dine at the —— Club, quite unaware of the wonderful events that Fate had in store for him. Mr. William was there, giving a farewell dinner to his friend Mr. James (now Sir James).1 These two asked Mr. Titmarsh2 to join them, and the talk naturally turned to the tour Mr. James was about to take. The Peninsular and Oriental Company3 had arranged an excursion in the Mediterranean. In the space of a couple of months, it would show as many men and cities as Ulysses4 saw and noted in ten years. Malta, Athens, Smyrna, Constantinople, Jerusalem, and Cairo5 were to be visited, and everybody was to be back in London by Lord Mayor's Day.6

1. Thackeray disguises the names of both men. “Now Sir James” means Mr. James had been knighted by the time the book appeared.
2. Michael Angelo Titmarsh, the comic pen name Thackeray used for this book and others. Here he writes of himself in the third person.
3. The Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation Company (P&O), a British line of steamships carrying the royal mail and passengers to Spain, Portugal, and the Mediterranean.
4. The hero of Homer's Odyssey, who wandered for ten years on his way home from the Trojan War.
5. Smyrna is modern İzmir, in Turkey; Constantinople is modern Istanbul. Jerusalem was then in the Ottoman Empire, and Cairo in Ottoman Egypt.
6. The day the new Lord Mayor of the City of London took office with a procession, then held on November 9.

The idea of beholding these famous places inflamed Mr. Titmarsh's mind ; and the charms of such a journey were eloquently impressed upon him by Mr. James. "Come," said that kind and hospitable gentleman, " and make one of my family party ; in all your life you will never probably have a chance again to see so much in so short a time. Consider — it is as easy as a journey to Paris or to Baden." Mr. Titmarsh considered all these things ; but also the difficulties of the situation : he had but six-and-thirty hours to get ready for so portentous a journey — he had engagements at home — finally, could he afford it? In spite of these objections, however, with every glass of claret the enthusiasm somehow rose, and the difficulties vanished.

The idea of seeing these famous places set Mr. Titmarsh's mind on fire, and Mr. James eloquently pressed the charms of such a journey on him. “Come,” said that kind and hospitable gentleman, “and make one of my family party. In all your life you will probably never have a chance again to see so much in so short a time. Consider—it is as easy as a journey to Paris or to Baden.” Mr. Titmarsh considered all these things, but also the difficulties of the situation. He had only thirty-six hours to get ready for so weighty a journey. He had engagements at home. Finally, could he afford it? In spite of these objections, however, with every glass of claret the enthusiasm somehow rose, and the difficulties vanished.

But when Mr. James, to crown all, said he had no doubt that his friends, the Directors of the Peninsular and Oriental Company, would make Mr. Titmarsh the present of a berth for the voyage, all objections ceased on his part: to break his outstanding engagements — to write letters to his amazed family, stating that they were not to expect him at dinner on Saturday fortnight, as he would be at Jerusalem on that day — to purchase eighteen shirts and lay in a sea stock of Russia ducks, —was the work of four-and-twenty hours ; and on the 26th of July, the Lady Mary Wood was sailing from Southampton with the "subject of the present memoir," quite astonished to find himself one of the passengers on board.

But when Mr. James, to crown it all, said he had no doubt that his friends, the directors of the Peninsular and Oriental Company, would make Mr. Titmarsh a present of a berth for the voyage, all objections ceased on his part. In twenty-four hours he broke his outstanding engagements, wrote letters to his amazed family telling them not to expect him at dinner two weeks from Saturday, as he would be in Jerusalem that day, and bought eighteen shirts and laid in a sea stock of Russia ducks.7 And on July 26, the Lady Mary Wood8 was sailing from Southampton with the “subject of the present memoir,” quite astonished to find himself one of the passengers on board.

7. Clothes made of Russia duck, a strong linen cloth once used for summer wear.
8. A P&O steamer. On the way Thackeray changed to other company ships, among them the Tagus and the Iberia.

These important statements are made partly to convince some incredulous friends — who insist still that the writer never went abroad at all, and wrote the following pages, out of pure fancy, in retirement at Putney ; but mainly, to give him an opportunity of thanking the Directors of the Company in question for a delightful excursion.

These important statements are made partly to convince some doubting friends, who still insist that the writer never went abroad at all, and wrote the following pages out of pure fancy, in retirement at Putney. But mainly they are made to give him a chance to thank the directors of the Company in question for a delightful excursion.

It was one so easy, so charming, and I think profitable — it leaves such a store of pleasant recollections for after days — and creates so many new sources of interest (a newspaper letter from Beyrout, or Malta, or Algiers has twice the interest now that it had formerly), — that I can't but recommend all persons who have time and means to make a similar journey — vacation idlers to extend their travels and pursue it: above all, young, well-educated men entering life, to take this course, we will say, after that at college; and, having their book-learning fresh in their minds, see the living people and their cities, and the actual aspect of Nature, along the famous shores of the Mediterranean.

It was so easy, so charming, and, I think, profitable. It leaves such a store of pleasant memories for later days, and it creates so many new sources of interest. (A newspaper letter from Beirut, or Malta, or Algiers now has twice the interest it had before.) So I can't help recommending all persons who have the time and means to make a similar journey. Vacation idlers should extend their travels and follow it. Above all, young, well-educated men entering life should take this course—after their course at college, let us say. With their book-learning fresh in their minds, they should see the living people and their cities, and the actual face of Nature, along the famous shores of the Mediterranean.

The sun brought all the sick people out of their berths this morning, and the indescribable moans and noises which had been issuing from behind the fine painted doors on each side of the cabin happily ceased. Long before sunrise, I had the good fortune to discover that it was no longer necessary to maintain the horizontal posture, and, the very instant this truth was apparent, came on deck, at two o'clock in the morning, to see a noble full moon sinking westward, and millions of the most brilliant stars shining overhead. The night was so serenely pure, that you saw them in magnificent airy perspective : the blue sky around and over them, and other more distant orbs sparkling above, till they glittered away faintly into the immeasurable distance. The ship went rolling over a heavy, sweltering, calm sea. The breeze was a warm and soft one; quite different to the rigid air we had left behind us, two days since, off the Isle of Wight. The bell kept tolling its half hours, and the mate explained the mystery of watch and dog-watch.

The sun brought all the sick people out of their berths this morning, and the indescribable moans and noises that had been coming from behind the fine painted doors on each side of the cabin happily stopped. Long before sunrise, I had the good fortune to discover that it was no longer necessary to keep the horizontal posture. The very instant this truth was clear, I came on deck, at two o'clock in the morning. I saw a noble full moon sinking westward, and millions of the most brilliant stars shining overhead. The night was so calm and pure that you saw them in magnificent airy depth: the blue sky around and over them, and other, more distant stars sparkling above, till they glittered away faintly into the endless distance. The ship went rolling over a heavy, sweltering, calm sea. The breeze was warm and soft, quite different from the harsh air we had left behind us two days before, off the Isle of Wight. The bell kept tolling its half hours, and the mate explained the mystery of the watch and the dogwatch.9

9. A ship's day is divided into watches, mostly of four hours, with a bell struck every half hour. The two short dogwatches fall in the late afternoon and early evening.

The sight of that noble scene cured all the woes and discomfitures of sea-sickness at once, and if there were any need to communicate such secrets to the public, one might tell of much more good that the pleasant morning-watch effected ; but there are a set of emotions about which a man had best be shy of talking lightly, — and the feelings excited by contemplating this vast, magnificent, harmonious Nature are among these. The view of it inspires a delight and ecstasy which is not only hard to describe, but which has something secret in it that a man should not utter loudly. Hope, memory, humility, tender yearnings towards dear friends, and inexpressible love and reverence towards the Power which created the infinite universe blazing above eternally, and the vast ocean shining and rolling around — fill the heart with a solemn, humble happiness, that a person dwelling in a city has rarely occasion to enjoy. They are coming away from London parties at this time : the dear little eyes are closed in sleep under mother's wing. How far off city cares and pleasures appear to be! how small and mean they seem, dwindling out of sight before this magnificent brightness of Nature ! But the best thoughts only grow and strengthen under it. Heaven shines above, and the humbled spirit looks up reverently towards that boundless aspect of wisdom and beauty. You are at home, and with all at rest there, however far away they may be; and through the distance the heart broods over them, bright and wakeful like yonder peaceful stars overhead.

The sight of that noble scene cured all the woes and discomforts of seasickness at once. If there were any need to tell such secrets to the public, one might tell of much more good that the pleasant morning watch did. But there are some feelings that a man had best be shy of talking about lightly, and the feelings stirred by gazing on this vast, magnificent, harmonious Nature are among them. The view of it inspires a delight and ecstasy that is not only hard to describe, but has something secret in it that a man should not say aloud. Hope, memory, humility, tender longing for dear friends, and inexpressible love and reverence for the Power that created the infinite universe blazing forever above, and the vast ocean shining and rolling around—these fill the heart with a solemn, humble happiness that a person living in a city rarely has the chance to enjoy. At this hour they are coming away from London parties. The dear little eyes are closed in sleep under their mother's wing. How far off city cares and pleasures seem! How small and mean they look, dwindling out of sight before this magnificent brightness of Nature! But the best thoughts only grow and strengthen under it. Heaven shines above, and the humbled spirit looks up reverently toward that boundless face of wisdom and beauty. You are at home, and with everyone at rest there, however far away they may be. Across the distance the heart broods over them, bright and wakeful like those peaceful stars overhead.

The day was as fine and calm as the night ; at seven bells, suddenly a bell began to toll very much like that of a country church, and on going on deck we found an awning raised, a desk with a flag flung over it close to the compass, and the ship's company and passengers assembled there to hear the captain read the Service in a manly respectful voice. This, too, was a novel and touching sight to me. Peaked ridges of purple mountains rose to the left of the ship, —Finisterre and the coast of Gallicia. The sky above was cloudless and shining; the vast dark ocean smiled peacefully round about, and the ship went rolling over it, as the people within were praising the Maker of all.

The day was as fine and calm as the night. At seven bells, suddenly a bell began to toll, very much like that of a country church. On going on deck, we found an awning raised and a desk with a flag thrown over it, close to the compass. The ship's crew and passengers were gathered there to hear the captain read the Service10 in a manly, respectful voice. This, too, was a new and touching sight to me. Peaked ridges of purple mountains rose to the left of the ship: Finisterre and the coast of Galicia.11 The sky above was cloudless and shining. The vast dark ocean smiled peacefully all around, and the ship went rolling over it, while the people within were praising the Maker of all.

10. The Sunday morning service of the Church of England, here read by the ship's captain.
11. Cape Finisterre, a headland on the northwest coast of Spain, in the region of Galicia.

In honour of the day, it was announced that the passengers would be regaled with champagne at dinner; and accordingly that exhilarating liquor was served out in decent profusion, the company drinking the captain's health with the customary orations of compliment and acknowledgment. This feast was scarcely ended, when we found ourselves rounding the headland into Vigo Bay, passing a grim and tall island of rocky mountains which lies in the centre of the bay.

In honor of the day, it was announced that the passengers would be treated to champagne at dinner. And so that cheering drink was served out in decent plenty, and the company drank the captain's health with the usual speeches of compliment and thanks. This feast was scarcely over when we found ourselves rounding the headland into Vigo Bay,12 passing a grim, tall island of rocky mountains that lies in the center of the bay.

12. A long inlet of the Atlantic on the coast of Galicia, with the port of Vigo on its southeastern shore.