Hearth Interactive

Iztapalapa, the Causeway and the City on the Lake

Written
dated October 30, 1520; printed at Seville, 1522 (describes November 7–8, 1519, and the city as Cortés saw it in 1519–1520)
Place
Mexico-Tenochtitlan
Language
Spanish
Kind of source
letter
Reading time
8 minutes
Difficulty
Moderate
Intensity
Low

Conquest and resistance in the AmericasMesoamericaFirst contact in the AmericasHomes, towns and buildingRulers and courts

Versions

The edited translation, in simplified modern English. Bracketed words were added for clarity; [...] marks a cut. Tap a note number to read the note.

Iztapalapa

This city of Iztapalapa must have twelve or fifteen thousand households.1 It lies on the shore of a great salt lake, half of it in the water and half on dry land. Its lord has some new houses, not yet finished, that are as good as the best in Spain. I mean that they are large and well built, in their stonework, their carpentry and floors, and their fittings for every kind of household service. They lack only the carved ornament and other rich things that houses in Spain have. In many of the rooms, upstairs and down, there are very cool gardens, with many trees and sweet-smelling flowers. There are also pools of fresh water, very well made, with steps going down to the bottom.

Beside the house there is a very large garden, and above it a lookout with very beautiful galleries and halls. Inside the garden is a very large pool of fresh water, perfectly square, with walls of fine stonework. Around it runs a walk paved with good brick, so wide that four people can stroll along it side by side. Each side is four hundred paces long, sixteen hundred all the way around. On the other side of the walk, toward the garden wall, runs a trellis of canes and slats, and behind it every kind of tree and sweet-smelling herb. In the pool there are many fish and many birds, wild ducks, teal, and other water birds, so many that they often almost cover the water.2

The Causeway

The day after I reached this city I left it. After half a league I entered a causeway. It runs two leagues through the middle of the lake, all the way to the great city of Tenuxtitan, which stands in the middle of the lake.3 The causeway is two lances wide and very well built; eight horsemen can ride abreast along its whole length. Along these two leagues, on one side of the causeway or the other, stand three cities. One of them, called Mesicalsingo, is built mostly out in the lake. The other two, called Niciaca and Huchilohuchico, stand on its shore, with many of their houses out in the water.4

[...] So I went on along the causeway. Half a league before the main body of the city of Tenuxtitan, another causeway comes in from the mainland to join this one. At that point there is a very strong fort with two towers.5 It is enclosed by a wall twice a man's height, with a battlemented parapet all along the wall that takes in both causeways. It has only two gates, one to go in and one to go out. Here as many as a thousand leading men, citizens of the city, came out to see me and speak with me. They were all dressed alike, very richly by their custom. As each one came up to speak to me, he made a ceremony that they use a great deal: he put his hand on the ground and kissed it.6 So I stood waiting almost an hour, until each of them had made his ceremony.

Right by the city, the causeway is cut open and crossed by a wooden bridge ten paces wide. The gap lets the water flow in and out, because it rises and falls. It is also for the city's defense, because they can take away and put back the very long, wide beams the bridge is made of whenever they wish. The city has many bridges like this, as Your Highness will see later, when I give my account of it.

Moctezuma Comes Out

When we had crossed this bridge, the lord Muteczuma himself came out to receive us,7 with some two hundred lords. They were all barefoot and dressed in another livery, or style of clothing, also very rich by their custom, and richer than that of the others. They came in two processions, keeping close to the walls of the street. The street is very wide, beautiful, and straight, so straight that one end can be seen from the other, though it runs for two thirds of a league. On both sides are very good, large houses, both dwellings and temples.8 Muteczuma came down the middle of the street with two lords, one on his right hand and the other on his left. One was the great lord who, as I said, had come out to speak to me in a litter.9 The other was Muteczuma's brother, lord of Iztapalapa, the city I had set out from that day.10 All three were dressed alike, except that Muteczuma wore shoes and the other two lords were barefoot. Each of them held him by an arm.

When we met, I got down from my horse and went forward alone to embrace him. But the two lords with him stopped me with their hands, so that I would not touch him. Then they and he also made the ceremony of kissing the earth. When it was done, he told his brother, who was with him, to stay with me and lead me by the arm. He himself went a little way ahead of me with the other lord. When he had finished speaking with me, the other lords of the two processions came up one after another, in order, to speak to me too. Then they went back to their places.

When I first came up to Muteczuma to speak with him, I took from my own neck a necklace of pearls and glass diamonds and hung it around his. After we had walked some way along the street, a servant of his came with two shrimp necklaces wrapped in a cloth. They were made of red shells, which they value highly, and from each necklace hung eight shrimps of gold, finely made, almost a span long.11 When they were brought to him, he turned to me and put them around my neck. Then he went on along the street in the same order as before. At last we came to a very large and beautiful house, well furnished, which he had ready for our lodging.12

There he took my hand and brought me into a great hall, facing the courtyard we had come in by. He had me sit on a very rich dais, which he had ordered made for him, and told me to wait for him there, and he went away. A little later, once all my company had been lodged, he came back. He brought many kinds of gold and silver jewelry, and featherwork, and as many as five or six thousand pieces of cotton cloth, very rich, woven and worked in many different ways.

Moctezuma's Speech

After he had given me these things, he sat down on another dais, which they set up for him there beside mine. Seated there, he spoke in this way:

[...]13 “As for my houses, you can see that they are made of stone, lime, and earth.” Then he lifted his clothes and showed me his body, and said to me, “Look at me. I am flesh and bone, like you and like everyone, mortal and solid to the touch.” He took hold of his arms and his body with his hands. “See how they have lied to you. It is true that some gold things have come down to me from my forefathers. Whatever I have is yours whenever you want it. Now I am going back to the other houses where I live. Here you will be given everything you and your people need. Do not be troubled by anything, for this is your own house and your own land.”

The City on the Lake

[...] This great city of Tenuxtitan is built in the salt lake. From the mainland to the main body of the city it is two leagues, by whichever side you enter. It has four entrances, all along causeways built by hand, each as wide as two light-horse lances. The city is the size of Seville and Córdoba.14 Its streets, I mean the main ones, are very wide and very straight. Some of the main streets, and all the others, are half land and half water, and along the water they go in their canoes.15 All the streets are cut open at intervals, so that the water crosses from one to another. Every one of these gaps, and some are very wide, has a bridge of very wide, very large beams, joined together, strong, and well finished. Over many of them ten horsemen can ride side by side.16

Notes

  1. Cortés counts vecinos, householders, not people. Later writers name its lord as Cuitlahuac, Moctezuma's brother, who succeeded him as ruler in 1520 and died a few months later of smallpox. back
  2. Bernal Díaz also admired this garden, its fruit trees and its pool of fresh water, and says canoes could enter it from the lake. back
  3. A Spanish league was about three miles, roughly an hour's walk. Tenuxtitan is Cortés's spelling of Tenochtitlan. back
  4. Gayangos identifies Mesicalsingo as Mexicaltzingo and Huchilohuchico as Churubusco. Maudslay, following Eduard Seler, places Niciaca at Mixiuacan, on the southeast edge of the city. back
  5. Later historians called it the fort of Xoloc; Maudslay locates it at Acachinanco, where the causeway from Coyoacan joined. Cortés made it his headquarters during the siege of 1521. back
  6. The edition prints pesaba, weighed; we read besaba, kissed, since Cortés describes the same gesture a little later as kissing the earth. back
  7. Moctezuma II, ruler of the Mexica. Cortés writes his name Muteczuma. back
  8. Cortés calls the temples mezquitas, mosques, the word Spaniards used for the places of worship of the Muslims of Spain. back
  9. Earlier in the letter a young lord of about twenty-five, carried in a litter, met Cortés with Moctezuma's greetings. Prescott identifies him as Cacama, Moctezuma's nephew and lord of Texcoco. back
  10. Prescott identifies this lord as Cuitlahuac. Bernal Díaz says the lords of Texcoco, Iztapalapa, Tacuba and Coyoacan went ahead to meet Moctezuma, and that great lords held him by the arms. back
  11. A geme was the span from the tip of the thumb to the tip of the forefinger. Gayangos gives it as a sixth of a Castilian vara, about five and a half inches. back
  12. Prescott places the Spaniards' lodging in the palace of Axayacatl, Moctezuma's father, facing the great temple. back
  13. In the cut lines, Moctezuma takes Charles for the heir of his people's ancient lord, promises to obey Cortés in his place, and says enemies told Cortés his houses had gold walls and he made himself a god. back
  14. Two great cities of Andalusia, in southern Spain. back
  15. The streets were partly canals: a path of earth beside a channel of water, used by canoes carrying people and goods. back
  16. The Spaniards learned how easily these bridges could be removed on the night of June 30 to July 1, 1520, when they carried a portable bridge to cross the gaps as they fled. back